Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered stop. Close by, a police siren pierces the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds form.

It is perhaps the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish grapes on a rambling allotment sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a commuter railway just above the city downtown.

"I've noticed people concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has organized a informal group of growers who make wine from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Wine Gardens Across the Globe

To date, Bayliss-Smith's plot is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes better-known urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of the French capital's renowned Montmartre area and more than three thousand vines with views of and within Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards assist urban areas remain greener and more diverse. They protect land from construction by establishing long-term, yielding agricultural units inside cities," explains the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a result of the soils the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, local spirit, landscape and history of a urban center," adds the spokesperson.

Mystery Polish Grapes

Returning to Bristol, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting left in his garden by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes bruised and mouldy grapes from the shimmering bunches. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Efforts Throughout the City

The other members of the group are additionally taking advantage of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of vintage from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from about fifty plants. "I adore the aroma of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a basket of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her family in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously endured three different owners," she says. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."

Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated over one hundred fifty plants situated on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of plants arranged along the hillside with the help of her child, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that amateurs can make intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, natural wine," she says. "It's very fashionable, but really it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."

"When I tread the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the skins and enter the juice," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of small branches, pips and red liquid. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently add a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Conditions and Inventive Solutions

A few doors down active senior another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to establish her grapevines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at the local university cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to France. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to mildew."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to install a barrier on

Joseph Bright
Joseph Bright

A passionate traveler and storyteller, Elara shares unique journeys and cultural discoveries from her global expeditions.